This is a variation of a very popular Northern German Christmas leftover dish, that I have taken and completely re-vamped. My mother used to make a crude version of this on Christmas Eve. As a child I always liked it and it has been many years since I had the opportunity to eat it.
Traditionally, on Christmas a roast Goose or Duck is served as the big holiday meal. If there are leftovers, one using them was by marinating them in spiced and sour gelatin on one of the days after Christmas.
The dish may have roots in the regions of Pomerania where goose farming has been practiced since 1500. However, I have not found any reliable source that this recipe did indeed originated there.
Home Fried Potatoes (Bratkartoffeln) is probably the dish that any German apprentice Chef learns how to prepare first. When prepared well, it is pure simplicity with great taste, so it is a bit of a surprise that truly well prepared Bratkartoffeln are so hard to find in German restaurants (abroad). I will prepare a dedicated blog post for them in the future.
The Frankfurt Green Sauce had its origins (you may have guessed) in Frankfurt. It is a salsa type cold sauce made from hard-boiled eggs, oil, vinegar, salt, sour cream and generous amount of seven fresh herbs, most commonly borage, sorrel, garden cress, chervil, chives, parsley, and salad burnet. Depending on the season sometimes other fresh herbs including dill, shallots, lovage, lemon balm, even spinach can be used. If you live in the Frankfurt area, any Supermarket and open-air-market sells these herbs per-packaged as a green sauce herbs bundle. If you can’t get them all, don’t be discouraged, just use what you can find and experiment, it will still taste great.
In Grüne Soße, the eggs are usually hard-boiled, then finely chopped or even pureed before they will be combine with a white base from sour cream and / or yogurt. It is a true herbal taste buds explosion and goes very well with boiled potatoes, fried potatoes, white meat, fish, pasta, even Schnitzel (remember, a true Wiener Schnitzel is always served without sauce).
In fact, one of the simplest and yet surprisingly tasty regional dishes in Frankfurt is Green Sauce with nothing but boiled potatoes. Green sauce was supposedly Goethe‘s favorite condiment.
The jellied goose meat, the home fired potatoes, and green sauce is a typical combination of two regional specialties, and a bit of work to prepare, but in essence a truly German meal.
Serves: 4 Difficulty: Medium Preparation time: 2.5 hours
Note: the Jellied Goose needs to be prepared the day before.
For the Jellied Goose you will need:
- 4 Goose Drumsticks (300g or 10.6 oz each)
- Salt, freshly ground white pepper
- 1/4 l (8.5 fl ounces) quality White Wine Vinegar
- 4 medium Bay leaves
- 6 Cloves
- 6 Kernels Allspice
- 6 Juniper Berries
- 1 TBS Mustard Seeds
- 10 white Peppercorns
- 2 Onions
- 2 large Carrots
- 2 TBS Olive Oil
- Gelatin Powder for 1l (34 fl oz) liquid
- 1-2 TBS Sugar
Rinse the drumsticks, place into a cooking pot large enough to accommodate. Add 1.5 – 2 l of water or until meat is covered. Add 3 TS of Salt, 5 TBS White Wine Vinegar, 4 Medium Bay leaves 6 Cloves 6 Kernels Allspice, 6 Juniper Berries, 1 TBS of Mustard Seeds, 10 White Peppercorns and bring to a boil. In the meantime peel the 2 onions and the 2 large carrots. Add 1 onion and 1 Carrot to the pot and let simmer for one hour on low heat.
Remove drumsticks and let cool off. Remove the skin and give to the dog if you want. Remove meat from the bones (DONOT feed the bones to the dog!) Cut meat into mouth size pieces and combine meat with 2 TBS olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Thoroughly remove fat from broth using for example a fat separator jug. Filter the broth through a very fine sieve or clean kitchen towel. Measure 1 l of the broth, add the remaining vinegar and bring to a boil. Slice the remaining carrot and onion, add to broth and let simmer for 10 minutes. Soak enough gelatin powder to gel 1 l of liquid in cold water according to packaging instructions. Remove broth from heat. Drain access liquid from Gelatin if needed and dissolve in the now still hot BUT NOT BOILING broth. Season broth with salt, white pepper, and sugar as needed. Arrange meat in e.g. a casserole and spread onions and carrots over it. Add broth until everything is evenly covered. Place in fridge overnight and serve cold with the home fried potatoes and green sauce.
The Frankfurt Green Sauce:
- 2 Eggs (hard boiled)
- 3 EL White Wine or Herbal Vinegar
- 1/2 TS Salt
- Pinch of freshly ground white pepper
- 1 TS Sugar
- 300 ml (10.1 fl oz) Sour Cream
- 300 ml (10.1 fl oz) Yogurt
- 50 ml (1.7 fl oz) Olive Oil
- 1 -2 TS Quality medium spicy Mustard
- 250 g fresh or frozen mixed Garden Herbs (e.g. borage, sorrel, garden cress, chervil, chives, parsley, salad burnet, dill)
Hard boil 2 eggs for 10 minutes, rinse with cold water and peel. Let the eggs cool. Combine 3 TBS White Wine Vinegar, ½ TS salt, pinch of freshly ground white pepper, 1 TS sugar, 300 ml (10.1 fl oz) Sour Cream, 300 ml (10.1 fl oz) Yogurt, 50 ml (1.7 fl oz) Olive Oil, 1 -2 TS Quality medium spicy Mustard and 250 g fresh or frozen mixed Garden Herbs to a sauce. Very finely chop cooled off hard boiled eggs and gently stir into the sauce. Season with salt, pepper, sugar and mustard as desired and place in fridge until ready to serve.
Home Fried Potatoes
- 1 Onion
- 3 El Clarified Butter
- 80 g Bacon Bits
- 500 g unpeeled boiled and cooled off potatoes (best prepared the day before)
- Salt and Pepper
- 2 TBS Finely Chopped Parsley
Finely chop 1 onion. Heat clarified butter in a frying pan. Fry bacon bits until they begin to brown, than add onions and fry for two more minutes until onions are soft and beginning to brown (onions must not turn dark color). Remove bacon and onions from frying pan and set aside.
Peel potatoes and cut into 5mm thick slices. Heat 2 TBS clarified butter in a very large frying pan (or use 2 smaller frying pans). Fry the potatoes slowly on medium heat, giving them a flip every now and then until they have developed and nice golden brown crunchy exterior.
Add onions and bacon and fry for 2 more minutes. Add chopped parsley and serve immediately with the jellied goose and green sauce.